Weekender Tunic and Beach Cover Up

Materials Needed

• Yarn: DK weight (#3 Light) yarn. Examples: Cotton, Bamboo, or a Cotton-Acrylic blend for drape and breathability.




• Size S (Bust 32-34″): 650 yds (approx. 3 skeins of 230 yds each)


• Size M (Bust 36-38″): 800 yds (approx. 4 skeins of 230 yds each)


• Size L (Bust 40-42″): 950 yds (approx. 5 skeins of 230 yds each)




• Hook: US Size G/6 (4.0 mm) or size needed to obtain gauge.


• Notions: Yarn needle for weaving ends, stitch markers (4), tape measure, blocking mats and pins (optional but recommended).

Gauge

4″ x 4″ square = 18 stitches (sts) x 10 rows in pattern stitch (see below).

Pattern stitch gauge is measured after blocking. To achieve proper drape, please take time to check your gauge.

• Pattern Stitch for Gauge Swatch: Ch 22. Row 1: Dc in 4th ch from hook and in each ch across. (20 dc). Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc), skip first st, *dc in next st, ch 1, skip next st; rep from * across, ending with dc in top of turning ch. Row 3: Ch 3, skip first st, *dc in next ch-1 sp, dc in next dc; rep from * across, ending with dc in top of turning ch. Repeat Rows 2-3 for pattern.

Abbreviations (US Terms)

• ch – chain


• sl st – slip stitch


• sc – single crochet


• dc – double crochet


• st(s) – stitch(es)


• sp – space


• sk – skip


• rep – repeat


• RS – right side


• WS – wrong side


• inc – increase


• dec – decrease


• beg – beginning


• cont – continue


• rem – remaining


• foll – following

Pattern Instructions

Construction Note: This top is worked from the top down in one piece. You begin with the back yoke, then work the front yoke separately, join at the shoulders, and finally work the body in the round. The sleeves are added after the body is complete, worked in joined rounds.

Back Yoke

Ch 62 (70, 78).

Row 1 (RS): Dc in 4th ch from hook (skipped ch counts as first dc) and in each ch across. Turn. (60, 68, 76 dc)

Row 2 (WS): Ch 3 (counts as dc), skip first st, *dc in next st, ch 1, skip next st; rep from * across to last 2 sts, dc in next st, dc in top of turning ch. Turn. (30, 34, 38 dc, and 29, 33, 37 ch-1 sps)

Row 3: Ch 3, skip first st, *dc in next ch-1 sp, dc in next dc; rep from * across to last ch-1 sp, dc in last ch-1 sp, dc in top of turning ch. Turn. (60, 68, 76 dc)

Rows 4-11 (12, 14): Repeat Rows 2 and 3 for pattern. You will have worked a total of 11 (13, 15) rows from the beginning. Place a stitch marker in each edge stitch at the top of the last row to mark the shoulder edge.

Shape Neckline (Back):

Next Row (RS): Ch 3, work in pattern across the first 18 (21, 24) sts (including the turning ch as first st). Turn. Work even on these 18 (21, 24) sts for 4 more rows, ending with a WS row. Fasten off.

Skip the center 24 (26, 28) sts for the back neck. Join yarn in the next st. Ch 3, work in pattern across the rem 18 (21, 24) sts. Work even for 4 more rows. Fasten off. This completes the back yoke.

Front Yoke

Ch 62 (70, 78).

Row 1 (RS): Dc in 4th ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (60, 68, 76 dc)

Rows 2-6 (2-7, 2-8): Work in pattern (Rows 2 & 3 of back yoke) for 5 (6, 7) rows total from beginning. End with a WS row.

Shape Neckline (Front):

Next Row (RS): Ch 3, work in pattern across the first 22 (25, 28) sts. Turn. Work even on these 22 (25, 28) sts, decreasing 1 st at the neck edge (work 2 sts together as a dc2tog) every RS row, 4 times. (18, 21, 24 sts rem). Work even until front yoke measures same as back yoke from cast-on to shoulder marker. Fasten off.

Skip the center 16 (18, 20) sts for the front neck. Join yarn in the next st. Ch 3, work in pattern across the rem 22 (25, 28) sts. Complete as for the first side, reversing shaping. Fasten off.

Join Shoulders & Begin Body

With RS facing, sew or crochet the shoulder seams together (matching the 18 (21, 24) sts on each side). Use a whip stitch or slip stitch seam. You now have a continuous piece with the front and back yokes joined at the shoulders.

Set-up Round for Body: With RS facing, join yarn at the underarm (side edge of the yoke). Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each row-end along the side of the back yoke (approx. 1 st per row), then sc evenly across the back bottom edge (60, 68, 76 sts), then sc in each row-end along the other side of the back yoke, then ch 4 (6, 8) for the first underarm, then sc evenly across the front bottom edge (60, 68, 76 sts), then ch 4 (6, 8) for the second underarm. Join with a sl st to the first sc. (Total sts: 128, 148, 168 sts plus underarm chains)

Round 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in each sc around, and work 1 dc in each ch of the underarm chains. Join with a sl st to top of beg ch-3. (128, 148, 168 dc)

Round 2: Ch 3, skip first st, *dc in next st, ch 1, skip next st; rep from * around. Join with sl st to 2nd ch of beg ch-3.

Round 3: Sl st into first ch-1 sp. Ch 3, *dc in next ch-1 sp, dc in next dc; rep from * around, ending with dc in last ch-1 sp. Join with sl st to top of beg ch-3.

Rounds 4-20 (22, 24): Repeat Rounds 2 and 3 for pattern until body measures approximately 12″ (13″, 14″) from underarm, or desired length. Fasten off.

Sleeves (Make 2)

Sleeves are worked in the round from the armhole down.

Round 1: With RS facing, join yarn at the center of the underarm ch. Ch 1, work sc evenly around the armhole, working 1 sc in each row-end along the yoke and 1 sc in each ch of the underarm. Join with sl st to first sc. (Approx. 40, 44, 48 sc)

Round 2 (Setup): Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in each sc around. Join with sl st. (40, 44, 48 dc)

Round 3: Ch 3, skip first st, *dc in next st, ch 1, skip next st; rep from * around. Join.

Round 4: Sl st into first ch-1 sp. Ch 3, *dc in next ch-1 sp, dc in next dc; rep from * around. Join.

Rounds 5-12 (5-14, 5-16): Repeat Rounds 3 and 4 for pattern. For a tapered sleeve, you may optionally decrease 2 sts evenly on the last round of the pattern (by skipping one dc in the dc round).

Final Round (Edging): Ch 1, sc in each st around. Fasten off.

Finishing

1. Weave in ends: Use a yarn needle to weave in all yarn tails securely on the wrong side of the fabric. Trim excess yarn.


2. Neckline Edging: With RS facing, join yarn at the back neck seam. Ch 1, work 1 round of sc evenly around the entire neckline, working 1 sc in each row-end and each st. Join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off. Weave in ends.


3. Bottom Edging: With RS facing, join yarn at the side seam. Ch 1, work 1 round of sc evenly around the bottom edge. Join. Fasten off. Weave in ends.


4. Blocking (Highly Recommended): Soak the garment in lukewarm water with a mild wool wash or baby shampoo for 15 minutes. Gently squeeze out excess water (do not wring). Lay flat on a towel, roll up to remove more moisture. Place on blocking mats, pin to the finished measurements (refer to your gauge), and allow to dry completely. Blocking opens up the stitch pattern and gives the top a professional, even drape.

Tips

• Customizing Fit: This pattern is designed with a relaxed fit. For a more fitted look, you can work the body decreases by working 2 dc together (dc2tog) at the center of each side seam every 4-6 rounds. For a wider body, simply add more rows before starting the body length.


• Yarn Substitution: Because this top relies on drape, avoid stiff, non-breathable yarns. A mercerized cotton or a bamboo/cotton blend will give the best results. If substituting, always make a gauge swatch and wash it as you intend to wash the finished garment.


• Preventing Gaps at Underarm: When working the setup round for the body, if you notice small holes at the corners of the underarm chains, pick up an extra stitch in the corner by working a dc into the corner of the yoke and the first chain simultaneously. This closes the gap and strengthens the underarm seam.