Boho Market Bag

Materials Needed

Yarn: DK weight (#3 Light) yarn. Recommended: Merino wool or a cotton-wool blend for drape and stitch definition.

• Size S (bust 32-34″): 650-700 yards (approx. 3 skeins of 230yd/100g)


• Size M (bust 36-38″): 780-830 yards (approx. 4 skeins)


• Size L (bust 40-42″): 900-980 yards (approx. 4-5 skeins)

Hook: 4.0 mm (G) or size needed to obtain gauge. A 4.5 mm (H) hook may be needed for the foundation chain if you crochet tightly.

Notions: Yarn needle, stitch markers (6-8), measuring tape, blocking pins and mats.

Gauge

4″ x 4″ (10 cm x 10 cm) = 18 stitches x 10 rows in main pattern (Alternating Shell & Mesh, described below).

Important: Work gauge swatch in the round, as the garment is worked top-down in the round. Block swatch before measuring.

Abbreviations (US Terms)

• ch – chain


• sl st – slip stitch


• sc – single crochet


• dc – double crochet


• tr – treble crochet (yarn over twice)


• sk – skip


• st(s) – stitch(es)


• sp – space


• ch-sp – chain-space (e.g., ch-3 sp = space created by 3 chains)


• shell – 4 dc worked into same stitch or space


• RS – right side


• WS – wrong side


• rep – repeat


• inc – increase


• pm – place marker


• BLO – back loop only

Pattern Instructions

Special Stitches

• Shell (sh): (4 dc, ch 1, 4 dc) all in the same st or sp. This creates a fan shape.


• Mesh block: (dc, ch 1, sk 1 st) repeated across.


• Decrease (dec): dc2tog (double crochet 2 together).

Construction Notes

This top is worked seamlessly from the top down. You begin with a foundation chain for the neckline, then create a yoke with raglan-style increases at four corners. After the yoke reaches underarm depth, you separate the body from the sleeves. The body continues in a lacy shell pattern. Sleeves are finished with a simple edging. The neckline and lower hem are bordered with a scalloped trim.

Size adjustments: For S, work yoke for 6 rows. For M, 7 rows. For L, 8 rows. Row counts in brackets [S/M/L].

Yoke

Row 1 (RS): Ch [120/136/152] loosely. Join with a sl st to first ch to form a ring, being careful not to twist. Ch 3 (counts as first dc here and throughout). Dc in next 23 ch (left back). Pm in next st (raglan marker). Dc in next 10 ch (left sleeve). Pm. Dc in next 48 ch (front). Pm. Dc in next 10 ch (right sleeve). Pm. Dc in remaining 24 ch (right back). Join with sl st to top of ch-3. (Total: [120/136/152] dc).

Row 2 (Increase row): Ch 3. *Dc in each dc until 1 st before marker. (Dc, ch 1, dc) in marked st (corner inc). Move marker up into the ch-1 sp. Dc in next dc (the st after marker). Repeat from * 3 more times. Dc in remaining dc. Join.

Row 3 (Establish Shell pattern): Ch 1, sc in same st. *Work (dc, ch 2, dc) in next ch-1 sp (corner). Sc in next 2 dc. Rep from * around, ending with sc in last dc. Join with sl st to first sc.

Row 4 (Shell row): Sl st into next sc. Ch 3 (counts as dc). *In corner ch-2 sp, work Shell (4 dc, ch 1, 4 dc). Sk next 2 sc. Dc in next sc. Rep from * around. Join with sl st to top of ch-3.

Row 5 (Mesh row): Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1). Sk 1 st. *Dc in next dc. Ch 1, sk 1 dc. Rep across to corner ch-1 sp. In corner sp, work (dc, ch 2, dc). Ch 1, sk 1 dc. Continue mesh across next side. Rep from * around. Join with sl st to 3rd ch of ch-4.

Row 6 (Shell row): Ch 3. *In next ch-2 corner sp, work Shell (4 dc, ch 1, 4 dc). Dc in next dc (the one after corner). Ch 1, sk 1 mesh sp. Dc in next dc. Rep from * around, working dc in every other mesh dc. Join.

Rows [7/8/9] – [S/M/L]: Repeat Rows 5 and 6 alternately, increasing the shell count along each raglan line. On Mesh rows, the corner sp becomes (dc, ch 2, dc). On Shell rows, the corner sp gets a full Shell. The number of dc between shells on the body will grow by 2 each Mesh row.

After completing [6/7/8] total yoke rows, your piece should measure approximately [5.5″/6.5″/7.5″] from the neck chain to the underarm point. Try it on if possible – the yoke should reach just below the armpit.

Separate Body and Sleeves

Next row (Joining row, WS): Ch 3. Work dc across left back until 1 st before marker. Sk all sleeve sts (between the two markers) – do not work into them. Ch [4/6/8] for underarm. Dc across front sts until next marker. Sk sleeve sts. Ch [4/6/8]. Dc across remaining right back sts. Join with sl st to top of ch-3.

Count your body stitches now: [72/80/92] dc + underarm chains. Place a marker at the center of each underarm chain.

Body – Shell & Mesh Pattern (worked in the round)

Round 1 (Mesh setup): Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1). *Sk 1 st, dc in next st, ch 1. Rep from * across back, working into underarm chains as if they were sts (dc in each ch, ch 1 between). Corner marker: when you reach the front, work (dc in first front st, ch 1). Continue mesh across front. Join with sl st to 3rd ch of ch-4. (You should have an even number of mesh sps; adjust by skipping an extra st if needed.)

Round 2 (Shell round): Ch 3. *Dc in next dc. In next ch-1 sp, work Shell (4 dc, ch 1, 4 dc). Sk next dc. Rep from * around. Join.

Round 3 (Mesh round): Ch 4. *Dc in next dc (the center dc of the previous Shell). Ch 1, sk 1 dc. Dc in next dc (the last dc of Shell). Ch 1. Rep from * around. Join.

Rounds 4-18: Repeat Rounds 2 and 3 alternately until the body measures [12″/13″/14″] from underarm, or desired length. The pattern will naturally form staggered shells.

Tip: For a more fitted look, you can add waist shaping: after Round 10, work 2 rounds of (dc2tog, ch 1, dc2tog) at the side markers, then return to the pattern.

Lower Hem Border

Round 1: Ch 1. Sc in each dc and in each ch-1 sp around. Join. (Even number of sc.)

Round 2 (Scallop edging): Ch 1. *Sk 2 sc. In next sc, work (5 dc). Sk 2 sc. Sl st in next sc. Rep from * around. Fasten off and weave in end.

Sleeves (make 2)

With RS facing, join yarn at center of underarm chain.

Round 1: Ch 3. Work [4/6/8] dc into underarm chains (1 dc per ch). Then work 1 dc into each yoke sleeve st (the sts you skipped earlier – [10/10/10] dc). Join with sl st. Total: [14/16/18] dc.

Round 2: Ch 3. Dc in each dc around. Join.

Round 3 (Dec round for S and M only): S: dc2tog, dc in next 12. M: dc2tog, dc in next 14. L: dc in all 18. Join. ([13/15/18] dc)

Rounds 4-10: Ch 3. Dc in each dc around. Join. For a shorter sleeve, stop at Round 7.

Final round (Cuff): Ch 1. *Sc in next 2 dc, ch 3, sk 1 dc. Rep from * around. Join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off.

Neckline Edging

With RS facing, join yarn at center back of neckline.

Round 1: Ch 1. Work sc evenly around neckline, working 1 sc per dc and 1 sc per ch-1 sp. Join.

Round 2: Ch 1. *Sc in next 3 sc, ch 3, sk 1 sc. Rep from * around. Join. Fasten off.

Finishing

Weave in ends: Using a yarn needle, weave in all tails securely on the wrong side. Pay attention to the underarm area and the neckline.

Blocking: This is essential for lace patterns. Soak the garment in lukewarm water with a drop of wool wash for 20 minutes. Gently squeeze out water (do not wring). Roll in a towel to remove excess moisture. Lay flat on blocking mats. Pin out the scalloped hem and the shell pattern, stretching gently to open up the lace. Let dry completely (24-48 hours). Blocking will even out stitches and add drape.

Tips

1. Try as you go: This top is designed to be tried on after the yoke is complete. If the neckline feels too tight, add 8-16 chains to the foundation chain before starting (in multiples of 8). Adjust the yoke row count accordingly.


2. Use stitch markers diligently: The four raglan markers are crucial. Move them up each round. If you lose track, the shell pattern will misalign. Use locking stitch markers for easy removal.


3. Customize the length: The body pattern is infinitely repeatable. For a tunic or dress length, simply continue Rounds 2 and 3 until you reach the desired length. Add an extra scallop round at the hem for a longer finish.