Wearables

Deep Purse

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Skill Level: Beginner

Materials Needed

Yarn: DK weight (#3 Light) yarn. Suggested: 100% Merino wool or a wool-blend for drape and stitch definition. Yardage estimates:
- Size S (approx. 30-32" bust): 800-900 yards (730-820 m)
- Size M (approx. 34-36" bust): 950-1100 yards (870-1000 m)
- Size L (approx. 38-40" bust): 1150-1300 yards (1050-1190 m)
- Note: Yardage may vary based on tension and row gauge. Buy an extra skein for safety.

Hook: 4.0 mm (G-6) or size needed to obtain gauge. A 3.75 mm (F-5) hook may be used for the ribbed cuffs if desired for a tighter fit.

Notions: Yarn needle, stitch markers (4-6), measuring tape, blocking mats and pins (optional but recommended).

Gauge

In main stitch pattern (after blocking): 18 stitches (sts) x 10 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in half double crochet (hdc) worked in the back loop only (BLO).

In ribbing (sc BLO): 20 sts x 14 rows = 4 inches (10 cm).

Always make a gauge swatch. Wash and block it before measuring. Adjust hook size if necessary to match gauge.

Abbreviations (US Terms)

ch – chain

sc – single crochet

hdc – half double crochet

dc – double crochet

sl st – slip stitch

st(s) – stitch(es)

sk – skip

BLO – back loop only

FLO – front loop only

RS – right side

WS – wrong side

rep – repeat

YO – yarn over

inc – increase (2 sts in same st)

dec – decrease (hdc2tog or sc2tog)

hdc2tog – half double crochet 2 together (decrease): YO, insert hook in next st, YO, pull up loop (3 loops on hook), YO, insert hook in next st, YO, pull up loop (5 loops on hook), YO, pull through all 5 loops.

sc2tog – single crochet 2 together: Insert hook in next st, YO, pull up loop, insert hook in next st, YO, pull up loop (3 loops on hook), YO, pull through all 3 loops.

BPdc – back post double crochet

FPdc – front post double crochet

PM – place marker

Pattern Instructions

Important Construction Notes

This top is worked flat in one piece from the bottom up, with separate front and back panels seamed at the shoulders and sides. It features a relaxed, slightly A-line silhouette with a deep V-neck at the front and a scooped back. The body is worked in an elongated stitch pattern (dc + ch 1) to create a light, airy fabric. The bottom hem and armholes are finished with a simple single crochet border. Sizing is achieved by adjusting the starting chain count and the number of increase rows.

Sizing Reference Chart

Size S: Finished bust: 32" (81 cm), Length: 20" (51 cm)

Size M: Finished bust: 36" (91 cm), Length: 21" (53 cm)

Size L: Finished bust: 40" (102 cm), Length: 22" (56 cm)

To customize, add or subtract multiples of 2 stitches to the starting chain.

Body (Front & Back – make two identical pieces)

Foundation Chain:

For Size S: Ch 78 (loosely).

For Size M: Ch 86.

For Size L: Ch 94.

Chain count includes turning chain. Example: For S, 76 sts + 2 ch = 78 ch.

Row 1 (RS): Dc in 4th ch from hook (counts as first dc + ch 1), *sk 1 ch, dc in next ch, ch 1; rep from * across. Turn. (You will have 37 dc + 37 ch-1 spaces for S; 41 dc + 41 ch-1 spaces for M; 45 dc + 45 ch-1 spaces for L)

Row 2 (WS): Ch 3 (counts as first dc + ch 1), sk first dc, *dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1; rep from * across to last dc, sk last dc, dc in top of turning ch (the 3rd ch of the ch-3 from previous row). Turn.

Rows 3-10: Repeat Row 2. You will work a total of 10 rows from the foundation chain. This forms the lower body (no shaping yet).

Begin Side Shaping (A-line increase):

Row 11 (Increase Row, RS): Ch 4 (counts as first dc + ch 2), dc in same first stitch (this creates an increase at the beginning), *dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1; rep from * across until you reach the last ch-1 space, in the last ch-1 space work: dc, ch 2, dc (increase at the end). Turn. (Your stitch count increases by 2 dc + 2 ch-1 spaces compared to previous row.)

Row 12 (WS): Ch 3 (counts as first dc + ch 1), sk first dc, *dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1; rep from * across. In the final ch-2 space of the increase, work: dc, ch 1, dc. Turn. (Now you have a normal pattern row with the new increased sts.)

Rows 13-14: Work even (repeat Row 2).

Rows 15-20: Repeat Increase Row (Row 11) every 4th row (Rows 15 and 19). Work 2 even rows between each increase. For Size S, work increases on Rows 11, 15, 19 (3 increases total). For Size M, work increases on Rows 11, 15, 19, 23 (4 increases total). For Size L, work increases on Rows 11, 15, 19, 23, 27 (5 increases total).

After last increase row, work even (repeat Row 2) until piece measures approximately 12" (30 cm) from foundation chain for S, 13" (33 cm) for M, 14" (36 cm) for L, ending after a WS row.

Divide for Armholes & Neck Shaping (Front and Back are identical up to this point; now we shape the V-neck and armholes)

Note: The following instructions are for the Front piece. The Back piece will be worked later with a slight variation at the neck (scoop neck). For now, continue with the Front.

Left Front (First Shoulder):

Row 1 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as first dc + ch 1), sk first dc, work in pattern across the next 14 (16, 18) dc/ch-1 spaces (this is half of your total stitch count, minus 1 for the center). Place a stitch marker in the last ch-1 space worked. Turn. (You have 14 (16, 18) dc + ch-1 spaces for the left front.)

Row 2 (WS): Work even in pattern across these stitches. Turn.

Row 3 (Decrease Row for V-neck, RS): Ch 3, sk first dc, work in pattern across all sts until you reach the last 2 ch-1 spaces (nearest the center). Work: dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk the last ch-1 space (do not work into it), dc in top of turning ch. (1 stitch decreased at the neck edge.) Turn.

Row 4 (WS): Work even in pattern.

Rows 5-10: Repeat Rows 3-4 three more times (total of 4 decreases at the neck edge). You will have 10 (12, 14) dc + ch-1 spaces remaining.

If making Size L, work 2 more even rows (no decreases).

Armhole shaping (optional for deeper armhole): If you want a wider armhole, on the next RS row, work a decrease at the armhole edge (beginning of row) as well: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), hdc2tog over first 2 ch-1 spaces, then continue in pattern. This is optional; for a standard fit, skip this step.

Continue even (no more neck decreases) until total length from foundation chain measures 20" (51 cm) for S, 21" (53 cm) for M, 22" (56 cm) for L. Fasten off, leaving a 12" tail for seaming.

Right Front (Second Shoulder):

With RS facing, skip the center 1 dc + ch-1 space (the exact center of the front). Attach yarn to the next dc (the first stitch of the right front).

Row 1 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as first dc + ch 1), work in pattern across the remaining 14 (16, 18) dc + ch-1 spaces. Turn.

Rows 2-10: Work same as Left Front, mirroring decreases at the neck edge (work decreases at the beginning of RS rows). Fasten off.

Back Piece

Work the Back exactly as the Front up to the armhole/neck division (same number of rows and increases).

Left Back:

Row 1 (RS): Ch 3, work in pattern across the first 16 (18, 20) dc + ch-1 spaces (leave 5 (5, 5) center spaces for the back neck). Place marker at the last space worked. Turn.

Row 2 (WS): Work even.

Row 3 (RS): Work even in pattern (no neck decreases for back scoop).

Continue even until piece measures same length as Front. Fasten off.

Right Back: With RS facing, skip center 5 (5, 5) spaces, attach yarn to next dc, ch 3, work in pattern across remaining 16 (18, 20) spaces. Work even until same length. Fasten off.

Seaming

Using a yarn needle and the long tails, sew the shoulder seams together (matching dc to dc and ch-1 spaces). Sew side seams from the bottom hem up to the armhole openings, leaving approximately 7-8" (18-20 cm) open for armholes. Try on the top to ensure armholes are comfortable; adjust seam length if needed.

Sleeves (Optional Cap Sleeve)

If you prefer a sleeveless top, skip this section and proceed to Finishing.

With RS facing, attach yarn at the underarm seam. Round 1: Sc evenly around the armhole edge, working approximately 2 sc per row-end. Join with sl st to first sc. Round 2: Ch 2, hdc in each sc around. Join. Round 3: Ch 2, hdc in each hdc around. Join. Fasten off. Repeat for other armhole.

Finishing

Neckline Border: With RS facing, attach yarn at the left shoulder seam. Sc evenly along the back neck, down the left V-neck edge, across the bottom of the V (at the center front), and up the right V-neck edge. Work 2 sc in each row-end and 1 sc in each st. Join with sl st. Fasten off.

Bottom Hem Border: With RS facing, attach yarn at a side seam. Sc evenly across the bottom edge (1 sc per dc, 1 sc per ch-1 space). Join. Fasten off.

Weave in Ends: Use a yarn needle to weave in all ends securely on the wrong side. Trim excess.

Blocking: This step is crucial for achieving the correct drape and size. Soak the top in cool water with a drop of wool wash for 15-20 minutes. Gently squeeze out excess water (do not wring). Lay flat on blocking mats, pin to finished measurements (use your gauge swatch as a guide). Pay special attention to the V-neck points and side seams. Allow to air dry completely.

Tips

Tip 1: Chain Tension. The foundation chain can easily become too tight, pulling the bottom edge in. Use a hook one size larger (4.5 mm) for the foundation chain only, then switch to your regular hook for Row 1. This ensures a stretchy, even edge.

Tip 2: Customizing Fit. The A-line shape is created by the increase rows. For a more fitted silhouette, omit the increase rows entirely (work straight from the beginning) or add more increase rows for a wider flare. Always check the width against your bust measurement as you go.

Tip 3: Stitch Counts. Keep a row counter or tally marks. The dc + ch 1 pattern can be disorienting when counting. Place a stitch marker in the first ch-1 space of each row to help you find the beginning/end. If you lose count, remember that the number of dc should always equal the number of ch-1 spaces.