Carina Mosaic Shawl
Materials Needed
Yarn: DK weight (#3 Light) yarn in a soft, drapey fiber (merino, alpaca, or acrylic blend). Yardage estimates:
- Size S (bust 32-34"): 900-1000 yards
- Size M (bust 36-38"): 1100-1200 yards
- Size L (bust 40-42"): 1300-1400 yards
Hook: Size G/6 (4.0 mm) or size needed to obtain gauge. For a looser drape, try a 4.5 mm hook.
Notions: Yarn needle, stitch markers (6-8), scissors, measuring tape.
Gauge
4 inches = 16 stitches x 12 rows in pattern stitch (dc, ch 1 mesh) after blocking. Gauge is critical for fit. Work a 6" swatch, block, and measure.
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- sc – single crochet
- dc – double crochet
- tr – treble crochet
- sk – skip
- sp – space
- sl st – slip stitch
- RS – right side
- WS – wrong side
- rep – repeat
- inc – increase
- dec – decrease
- fsc – foundation single crochet
- BLO – back loop only
- FLO – front loop only
- PM – place marker
Pattern Instructions
Construction Overview
This top is worked from the top down in one piece. You begin with a shoulder yoke, then split for front and back, work the body in the round, and finish with sleeve cuffs and a bottom hem band. The design features an open mesh stitch that creates a beautiful drape and visual interest.
Yoke (Worked Flat, Back and Forth)
Foundation Row (RS): Using fsc (or ch a multiple of 3 + 2, then sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across), work 90 (102, 114) fsc. Turn.
Row 1 (WS): Ch 1, sc in first st. *Ch 3, sk 2 sts, sc in next st. Rep from * across. Turn. (30, 34, 38 ch-3 loops)
Row 2 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in first ch-3 sp. *Sc in next ch-3 sp, 3 dc in next ch-3 sp. Rep from * across, ending with 3 dc in last ch-3 sp. Turn.
Row 3: Ch 1, sc in first dc. *Ch 3, sk next 3 sts, sc in next sc. Rep from * across, ending with sc in top of turning ch. Turn.
Rows 4-11: Repeat Rows 2-3 four more times. You now have 8 rows of mesh completed.
Shoulder Shaping & Splitting for Front/Back
Row 12 (RS): Ch 3, 2 dc in first ch-3 sp. Sc in next sp, 3 dc in next sp. Sc in next sp. PM in this sc (this marks the right shoulder). Continue pattern across: *3 dc in next sp, sc in next sp* until you have worked 8 (9, 10) groups of 3 dc. PM in the last sc of this section (left shoulder). Now work across the remaining sts for the front: 3 dc in next sp, sc in next sp, rep across. Turn.
Row 13 (WS): Ch 1, sc in first dc. Ch 3, sk 3, sc in next sc. Rep across, but at each marker, work an increase: sc in marked st, ch 3, sc in same st (creates a V-shape). Remove markers after working. At the end of row, turn.
Row 14: Ch 3, 2 dc in first sp. *Sc in next sp, 3 dc in next sp* rep across, working (sc, 3 dc) in each V-increase space. Turn.
Row 15: Rep Row 13 (no markers needed now – the V-increases will naturally appear at the shoulder lines). At the end of row, do NOT turn.
Body (Worked in the Round)
Joining Round (RS): You will now join front and back. Ch 3, 2 dc in first sp. *Sc in next sp, 3 dc in next sp* rep across the back section. When you reach the underarm gap (between back and front), ch 6 (8, 10) for underarm. Sc in the first sp of the front section. Continue pattern across front: *3 dc in next sp, sc in next sp* rep across. At end of front, ch 6 (8, 10) for second underarm. Join with sl st to top of beginning ch-3. PM for beginning of round. (Total sts will vary based on size – approximately 120-160 sts around)
Round 1: Ch 3, 2 dc in same sp. *Sc in next sp, 3 dc in next sp* rep around. In each underarm chain space, work: sc in first ch, (ch 3, sk 2 ch, sc in next ch) to end of chain space. Join with sl st to top of ch-3.
Round 2: Ch 1, sc in first dc. *Ch 3, sk next 3 sts, sc in next sc* rep around. In underarm sections, ch 3, sc in each sc from previous round. Join with sl st to first sc.
Rounds 3-20: Repeat Rounds 1-2 for 18 rounds total, or until body measures 10" (11", 12") from underarm, or desired length. Try on as you go.
Bottom Hem Band
Round 1: Ch 1, sc in same st and in each st and ch-sp around. Do not join – work in continuous spiral. (Number of sc will be approx 180-240). Place marker and move up each round.
Round 2: Sc in BLO of each sc around.
Rounds 3-5: Sc in both loops of each sc around.
Round 6: *Sc in next 5 sts, sc2tog* rep around. (Decrease evenly)
Rounds 7-8: Sc in each st around. Fasten off, weave in end.
Sleeve Cuffs (Make 2)
Attach yarn at underarm seam with RS facing.
Round 1: Ch 1, sc evenly around armhole opening. Work approximately 40 (48, 56) sc. Join with sl st to first sc.
Round 2: Ch 1, sc in same st. *Ch 3, sk 2 sts, sc in next st* rep around. Join.
Round 3: Sl st into first ch-3 sp. Ch 3, 2 dc in same sp. *Sc in next sp, 3 dc in next sp* rep around. Join.
Round 4: Ch 1, sc in first dc. *Ch 3, sk 3 sts, sc in next sc* rep around. Join.
Rounds 5-8: Rep Rounds 3-4 twice more.
Final Round (cuff edge): Ch 1, sc in each st and ch-sp around. Join, fasten off. Weave in ends.
Neckline Trim
With RS facing, attach yarn at back neck seam.
Round 1: Ch 1, sc evenly around neckline. Work 1 sc in each foundation st and 1 sc in each row-end. Join.
Round 2: Ch 1, sc in same st. *Ch 2, sk 1 st, sc in next st* rep around. Join.
Round 3: Sl st into ch-2 sp. Ch 1, (sc, hdc, dc) in same sp. *Sc in next ch-2 sp, (hdc, dc, tr) in next sp* rep around, alternating. Join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off. Weave in all ends.
Finishing
Weaving Ends: Using a yarn needle, weave all ends in on the wrong side, following the direction of the stitches. Trim excess close to the fabric.
Blocking: Soak the finished top in cool water with a drop of mild soap for 15-20 minutes. Gently squeeze out excess water (do not wring). Lay flat on a towel, roll up to remove more water, then unroll and shape to measurements. Pin the mesh pattern open to enhance drape and even out stitches. Allow to dry completely (24-48 hours).
Assembly Check: Try on the top after blocking. The underarm chains should sit comfortably without pulling. If the armhole feels tight, you can add an extra round of sc to the cuff for more ease.
Tips
1. Customize the Length: The body length is easily adjustable. For a cropped top, stop at Round 12 instead of 20. For a tunic, continue until the body measures 14-16". Always try on as you go – the mesh stretches beautifully when worn.
2. Keep Track of Your Rounds: Use a row counter or place a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round. The pattern stitch (dc groups and sc) is very repetitive, and it's easy to lose count if you're distracted. I recommend marking every 5th round for quick reference.
3. Yarn Substitution Advice: This pattern works best with yarns that have good stitch definition and a soft drape. Avoid stiff cottons or very fuzzy yarns (like mohair alone) as they can hide the mesh pattern. If you want to use a lighter weight (fingering/sock yarn), go up to a 4.5 mm hook and add extra repeats for your size. For a chunkier look, use worsted weight with a 5.5 mm hook and work fewer rounds.
