Free Crochet Pattern for a Beginner Stripes Blanket

Materials Needed

• Yarn: 100% Cotton Worsted Weight (Category 4) yarn. Approx. 350 yards (320 m) for the main color (MC) and 150 yards (137 m) for the contrast color (CC). A soft, absorbent cotton like Lily Sugar‘n Cream or Lion Brand Kitchen Cotton works beautifully. If using a different brand, ensure it is machine washable.


• Hook: Size H/8 (5.0 mm) crochet hook, or size needed to obtain gauge.


• Notions: Yarn needle for weaving ends, scissors, stitch markers (optional, for counting rows).

Gauge

In double crochet (dc) and chain-1 spaces, after blocking: 4 inches (10 cm) = 14 stitches x 8 rows. To check gauge, ch 16, dc in 4th ch from hook and in each ch across (14 sts). Work 4 rows of dc. Measure the center 4 inches.

Abbreviations (US Terms)

• ch – chain


• st(s) – stitch(es)


• sl st – slip stitch


• sc – single crochet


• dc – double crochet


• tr – treble crochet


• sk – skip


• sp(s) – space(s)


• rep – repeat


• RS – right side


• WS – wrong side


• MC – Main Color


• CC – Contrast Color

Pattern Instructions

Finished Size: Approximately 14 inches (35.5 cm) wide x 14 inches (35.5 cm) long, a perfect square for a dishcloth or decorative placemat.

Pattern Notes

• This pattern is worked flat in rows, using a combination of double crochet and treble crochet stitches to create a dense, textured fabric that is excellent for scrubbing or absorbing moisture.


• The “Waffle Weave” texture is created by working front post double crochet (FPdc) and back post double crochet (BPdc) around the posts of stitches from the row below. For clarity, we will call this “Post Stitch” technique.


• Ch 3 at the beginning of a row counts as a double crochet stitch.


• Ch 4 at the beginning of a row counts as a treble crochet stitch.


• Turn your work at the end of each row unless otherwise stated.

Waffle Weave Body (Make 1 square)

Foundation Row (WS): With MC, ch 32. Dc in 4th ch from hook (skipped chs count as first dc) and in each ch across. (30 dc). Turn.

Row 1 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as first dc here and throughout). *FPdc around next st, BPdc around next st; rep from * across to last 2 sts. FPdc around next st, dc in top of turning ch. Turn. (30 sts: 14 post sts + 15 regular dc? Let's refine: 30 sts total, but the pattern will be clearer if we work a multiple of 2 + 4. We have 30 sts. So: ch 3, *FPdc around next st, BPdc around next st; rep from * 13 more times (that uses 28 sts), dc in last st (top of turning ch). You have 1 FPdc, 1 BPdc, repeated 14 times? Actually, let's use a simpler multiple for the Waffle: 3 + 3. Let's restart the foundation for clarity. Revised Foundation: Ch 31. Dc in 4th ch from hook and in each ch across. (29 dc). This is a multiple of 3 + 2 (29 = 3x9 + 2). This will create a balanced waffle pattern.

Row 1 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as first dc). *FPdc around next st, dc in next st; rep from * across to last 2 sts. FPdc around next st, dc in top of turning ch. Turn. (29 sts: 15 FPdc, 14 dc).

Row 2 (WS): Ch 3. *BPdc around next st, dc in next st; rep from * across to last 2 sts. BPdc around next st, dc in top of turning ch. Turn. (29 sts).

Row 3 (RS): This row creates the “valleys” of the waffle. Ch 3. *Dc in next st, FPdc around next st; rep from * across to last 2 sts. Dc in next st, dc in top of turning ch. Turn. (Note: This offsets the post stitches).

Row 4 (WS): Ch 3. *Dc in next st, BPdc around next st; rep from * across to last 2 sts. Dc in next st, dc in top of turning ch. Turn.

Rows 5-8: Repeat Rows 1-4 once more.

Row 9 (RS): Ch 3. *FPdc around next st, dc in next st; rep from * across to last 2 sts. FPdc around next st, dc in top of turning ch. Turn.

Row 10 (WS): Ch 3. *BPdc around next st, dc in next st; rep from * across to last 2 sts. BPdc around next st, dc in top of turning ch. Turn.

Row 11 (RS): Ch 3. *Dc in next st, FPdc around next st; rep from * across to last 2 sts. Dc in next st, dc in top of turning ch. Turn.

Row 12 (WS): Ch 3. *Dc in next st, BPdc around next st; rep from * across to last 2 sts. Dc in next st, dc in top of turning ch. Turn.

Rows 13-24: Repeat Rows 9-12 three more times. (Total of 24 rows from foundation).

Row 25 (RS): Ch 3. *FPdc around next st, dc in next st; rep from * across to last 2 sts. FPdc around next st, dc in top of turning ch. Turn.

Row 26 (WS): Ch 3. *BPdc around next st, dc in next st; rep from * across to last 2 sts. BPdc around next st, dc in top of turning ch. Do not fasten off. Turn.

Border (Worked in the Round)

Round 1 (RS): Ch 1. Now you will work a single crochet border around the entire square. Start in the top-right corner (where you just finished).

• Top Edge: Sc evenly across the top edge, working 1 sc into each dc and 1 sc into each post stitch. (29 sc).


• First Corner: In the corner stitch (the last stitch of the row), work (sc, ch 2, sc) to turn the corner.


• Right Side Edge: Now working down the side. You have 26 rows. Work 1 sc into the side of each row (into the turning chain space or the side of the dc). (26 sc).


• Second Corner: In the bottom-right corner (foundation chain corner), work (sc, ch 2, sc).


• Bottom Edge: Work 1 sc into each foundation chain across (29 sc).


• Third Corner: In the bottom-left corner, work (sc, ch 2, sc).


• Left Side Edge: Work 1 sc into the side of each row (26 sc).


• Fourth Corner: In the top-left corner, work (sc, ch 2, sc).


• Join: Sl st to the first sc. Do not fasten off.

Round 2 (RS): Ch 1. *Sc in each sc across to the corner ch-2 space. In the corner space, work (sc, ch 2, sc). Rep from * around. Join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off MC. Weave in all ends.

Round 3 (RS): Join CC with a sl st in any corner ch-2 space. Ch 1. *In the corner space, work (sc, ch 2, sc). Sc in each sc across to next corner. Rep from * around. Join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off CC.

Finishing

1. Weave Ends: Using a yarn needle, carefully weave in all remaining yarn tails on the wrong side of the work. For the MC and CC, weave the ends through the back of the stitches for about 2 inches (5 cm), then trim close to the fabric.


2. Blocking (Optional but Recommended): If you want a perfectly square, professional-looking dishcloth, wet block it. Submerge the square in cool water for 15-20 minutes. Gently squeeze out excess water (do not wring). Lay the piece flat on a blocking mat or a clean towel, shape it into a perfect 14x14 inch (35.5 cm) square, and pin the corners. Allow to air dry completely. This will even out the stitches and enhance the waffle texture.


3. Final Check: Ensure all stitches are even and the border lies flat. If any corner curls, a light steam press (using an iron on low heat, not directly on the yarn) can help.

Tips

• Yarn Choice Matters: For a dishcloth, 100% cotton is non-negotiable. It is absorbent, durable, and becomes softer with washing. Acrylic yarns will not absorb water well and can melt under high heat.


• Post Stitch Tension: Keep your tension consistent, especially on the front post and back post double crochet stitches. If you pull them too tight, the fabric will pucker; too loose, and the waffle texture will be flat. Practice on a small swatch if needed.


• Count Your Stitches: The waffle pattern relies on a specific multiple of stitches (multiple of 3 + 2 for this version). If you lose or gain a stitch, the texture will shift. Use stitch markers every 10 stitches on the first few rows to help you stay on track.