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Free Crochet Pattern for a Bar Stitch Blanket

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Free
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Format: PDF Download (instant)
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Skill Level: Beginner

Materials Needed



  • Yarn: Approximately 1200 yards of worsted-weight (#4 Medium) cotton or cotton-blend yarn in a main color (MC), plus 200 yards in a contrasting color (CC) for the border. A soft, durable cotton like Lily Sugar'n Cream or Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton works beautifully for a dishcloth or potholder. For a larger blanket, consider a soft acrylic/ cotton blend.

  • Crochet Hook: Size H/8 (5.0 mm) or size needed to obtain gauge.

  • Notions: Yarn needle, scissors, stitch markers (optional).

  • Finished Size: Approximately 20 inches wide x 24 inches long (after blocking). This is a generous dishcloth, a small throw pillow cover, or a medium-sized potholder. To resize, chain in multiples of 3 + 2.



Gauge


Using H/8 (5.0 mm) hook, 14 stitches and 10 rows of the pattern stitch (double crochet & chain stitch, as described below) = 4 inches square. Always check your gauge; your tension may vary.



Abbreviations (US Terms)



  • ch – chain

  • sc – single crochet

  • dc – double crochet

  • st(s) – stitch(es)

  • sp – space

  • sk – skip

  • rep – repeat

  • beg – beginning

  • RS – right side

  • WS – wrong side

  • sl st – slip stitch

  • MC – main color

  • CC – contrasting color



Pattern Instructions


Notes: The main body uses a simple, reversible grid pattern made of double crochet and chain spaces. The border adds a clean, finished edge. Always turn your work after each row unless otherwise noted. The turning chain counts as a stitch.



Body (with MC)


Foundation Row (RS): Ch 72 (or any multiple of 3 + 2). Dc in 4th ch from hook (counts as 2 dc). *Ch 1, sk next 2 ch, dc in next ch. Rep from * across until you have 1 ch remaining. Dc in last ch. (You should have 23 dc groups? Let's count: 72 ch - 3 (first dc) = 69 sts left. 69 / 3 = 23 groups of ch-1 + dc, plus the beginning and ending dc. This gives a nice width. Turn.


Row 1 (WS): Ch 3 (counts as dc here and throughout). Sk first dc, *dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sk next dc. Rep from * across to last dc. Dc in top of turning ch. Turn.


Row 2 (RS): Ch 3. Sk first dc, *dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sk next dc. Rep from * across to last dc. Dc in top of turning ch. Turn.


Rows 3 – 60: Repeat Row 1 and Row 2 alternately. This creates a beautiful, open grid. Continue until your piece measures approximately 22 inches from the foundation edge, or until you are happy with the length. Do not fasten off.



Border (with CC)


Round 1 (Corner Setup): With RS facing, do not turn. Ch 1. Work 3 sc in the corner (the last dc of the last row). Then, working evenly down the left side: *sc in the side of each row, 2 sc in the side of each turning ch space. Repeat from * down the side. When you reach the bottom left corner, work 3 sc in the corner. Work evenly across the bottom edge: sc in each dc and ch-1 sp across. For each ch-1 sp, work 1 sc. For each dc, work 1 sc. When you reach the bottom right corner, work 3 sc in the corner. Work evenly up the right side (same as left side). When you reach the top right corner, work 3 sc in the corner. Work across the top edge (the foundation chain): sc in each ch across. When you reach the beginning corner, join with a sl st to the first sc. Fasten off CC, weave in end.


Round 2 (Crab Stitch / Reverse Single Crochet): With RS facing, join MC with a sl st in any stitch. Ch 1. Do not turn. Work Reverse Single Crochet (also called Crab Stitch) around the entire edge: *Insert hook in the next stitch to the right (instead of the left), yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops. Rep from * around. Join with a sl st to the first stitch. Fasten off MC, weave in end.



Finishing



  1. Weave in Ends: Thread your yarn needle and weave all loose ends into the back of the work, following the path of the stitches. Trim excess yarn closely.

  2. Blocking (Highly Recommended): Soak the finished piece in lukewarm water for 15 minutes. Gently squeeze out excess water (do not wring). Lay flat on a blocking mat or towel, gently stretching to the desired finished size (20" x 24"). Pin the corners and edges to hold the shape. Allow to air dry completely. Blocking evens out the stitches and gives a professional, crisp finish.

  3. Optional (for a pillow): Fold the piece in half with RS together, creating a 20" x 12" rectangle. Sew the side and top seams using a whip stitch or mattress stitch. Turn right side out, insert a 20" x 12" pillow form, and sew the bottom closed.



Tips



  • Maintain even tension on the chain spaces. The beauty of this pattern lies in the open, even grid. If your chain-1 spaces are too tight or too loose, the fabric will warp. Practice a few rows to find a comfortable rhythm.

  • Use stitch markers for the corners. When working the border, place a stitch marker in each of the 3-sc corner groups. This makes it easy to see where to place the 3 sc in the next round, ensuring a perfectly square and flat border.

  • For a sturdier dishcloth or potholder, use 100% cotton. Cotton is absorbent, heat-resistant, and washes beautifully. For a soft throw blanket, a cotton-acrylic blend will be softer but less durable for heavy use.